We had thought we’d take our Australian friends for a day trip to Carcassonne, famous for being the largest walled city in Europe. But after discussing this idea with our host before she left for her holidays, she pointed out that although Carcassonne is famous and interesting, it is not necessarily authentic. Carcassonne underwent significant restoration in the late 19th Century after only a few years earlier being considered by the French government for demolition. Apparently it was a wreck.

Our host suggested instead that we take a trip to Villefranche-de-Conflent, as it is an authentic walled city, which dates back to the late 11th Century. It is built on the confluence of three rivers at the foot of a large mountain, which apparently gave it an important strategic position to guard off would-be attackers. It has belonged to the French and the Spanish at different times in its history.

Both Carcassonne and Villefranche-de-Conflent are UNESCO listed sites.

To get to Villefranche-de-Conflent from Caudiès we had to drive through Prades, so of course we decided to have morning tea in Prades.

And you may not believe it, but it was market day in Prades. (Michael and Jeanie were beginning to think I had planned all of this for them – the markets I mean).

But these markets were quite different to the others we’ve been to.

It was also some type of fair. This stall holder would have waited a long time to get any customers for her floating duck side show.

There was also a ride where you could get strapped in and jump up and down on a trampoline. Again, no customers. And these three certainly did not want to try it. They were looking for somewhere for a coffee.

But, as is often the case when one visits a new village, it is very important to get one’s bearings. It didn’t take Mick long to find these urinoirs.

We enjoyed a coffee in a bar, as very few of these small villages have cafes as we know them. You order a coffee, next to a local ordering a wine or a Pastis, and there are certainly no croissants on the menu.

This mural was right across from the bar, so we encouraged Mick and Michael to pose for us. We then headed off to find the ‘real’ markets. There were lots of stalls similar to those found in markets we’d already been to but Jeanie had some luck finding a pair of slippers and encouraging a young French guitar-playing busker.

A short drive on we arrived at Villefranche-de-Conflent.  We had to pass through this gate to get inside the little town.

It was around lunchtime by now, but the sun had not risen high enough to get over the walls. We walked around exploring different alleys and streets, but decided it was time for lunch. In fact, very little was open, except for restaurants. Which is very common in France around midday.

We selected a very cosy restaurant and enjoyed a meal and a wine before heading off to visit some caves (wine cellars and cellar doors).

First stop was at Marc Marjoral’s just outside Estagel. He is such a character and we very much enjoy his wine. His wine is different from a lot you buy over here as he is an independent wine grower which means he can select the varieties of grapes he uses and the percentage composition of the grapes in each of his wines. His most expensive red wine is €9!

Mick was very keen to have Jeanie and Michael try some of his favourite bubbles (Blanquette de Limoux) that we had first tasted two years ago at the cave in Saint Paul. And, you may not believe this, but the man who accidentally cheek-kissed me on Christmas Eve in the bar in Caudiès was in charge. Of course we both recognised each other and we did laugh, but he was fantastic and gave us lots of different wines to try. By this stage, Jeanie and Michael thought we knew just about everyone. I was able to buy an aerator (for a single bottle of wine) that I had bought there two years ago. I actually bought three back then, one for us and one each for our next door neighbours. Ours had worn out from over use I think. Luckily for me he had one left.

Our final stop for the day was our local caveau (small cave) in Caudiès. The owner or manager, I am not sure which, whose name is Veronique and who is also the mother of Marius the chef and bar owner I’ve written about, is absolutely fantastic. She speaks great English but is also happy to let me practise my poor French.

I had told her we had friends coming from Australia to visit us and she enthusiastically greeted them as we walked in. Jeanie was after a bottle of the rosé I had won at the bar on Christmas Eve, but she also wanted to try the wine that is available by the litre where you bring in your own plastic bottles and have them filled up via a hose, similar to filling up a car. As it turned out, Veronique was having a delivery of this bulk wine when we arrived and so for awhile we were trapped inside. It was tough, but we survived.

This guy (not his best view) was setting up a small pump in order for the wine to be transferred from his truck to Veronique’s storage containers. The wine that is available like this is considered ‘table wine’. It is slightly less alcoholic, around 12%, and costs €1.90 per litre. Many of the locals only drink the ‘table wine’. Jeanie did enjoy the bulk rosé, but Veronique explained that it needed to rest after having just been delivered. So instead, Jeanie walked out with the bottle we’d come in for after she had paid the very reasonable price of €5.10.

Veronique explained that in summer she sells 1000 litres of bulk rosé but in winter only 250 litres.

But the biggest win of the day for me was just as we were about to walk out I noticed yet another bottle aerator and asked how it worked.

I just had to buy it. Check out the demonstration in the video below.

Unsure if it will slow Mick down or mean I have to drink faster to keep up.