Final Day in Turin

Being a Monday, loads of places were closed, but we took the chance to wander along the Po River. This river features quite a lot in the cryptic crosswords Mick and I enjoy doing, and now we can say that we have seen it.

Lots of row boats on the other side of the river from here

We spotted quite a few churches on our stroll, but this one, the Church of Santa Maria al Monte dei Cappuccini, was on a hill overlooking the river, with parkland in front of it. It was built for the Capuchin Order; completed in 1656 after taking almost 70 years to build. They obviously did not use the same builders as those used for the Sophia Hagia.

Yesterday, Mick and I stumbled across a small market quite close to us in a park opposite the Porta Nuova, which turned out to be very handy.

Wandering around the stall holders we spotted a few things we thought we could share with our friends Michael and Jeanie, who would be arriving later in the day. If things went to plan, they were to arrive mid-afternoon, after landing in Milan (from Singapore). Their plane landed much earlier than ours and they caught a bus directly from Malpensa Airport to a major bus depot in Turin. Mick thought that sounded better than the way we had arrived in the city.

We figured that they might be exhausted, so we suggested that they come to our little apartment, just across the road (in Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II) from their hotel, to share a mezze platter and a glass of wine (or two).

I spotted some salami at the markets and bought four different types: one made from wild boar, one made with Barolo wine, one made from sheep (I think) and the fourth would remain a mystery until our friend Michael could taste it. I wasn’t going to give Jeanie a taste of it though until I told her what it is. She could then decide for herself.

The mystery one is circled. A hint: in Italian it is mad from ‘asina’.

I also bought the most expensive dried tomatoes ever. I wanted a handful, but like the banana incident a few days ago at the Saturday markets – the very large man grabbed a very large handful and told me I owed him €15. I was not going to argue.

Mick spotted a young man selling wines. Of course he did!

The wine were made by the young man’s family (apparently for four generations) on a small vineyard near Castagnito; near where we will be staying once we leave Turin.

Between us we sampled his Roero Arneis (2022), his Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC (2022) and his personal favourite, Barbera d’Alba DOC (2022). Each bottle cost €9. We bought one of each to share tonight. But as it turned out, we had only two left by the time Jeanie and Michael arrived.

This was a neat way to keep the white wine cool in the park during the markets – the running water trickled continuously over the bottles in the top sink area.

There are quite a lot of these water fountains throughout the city that provide drinking water for residents and visitors. They run all the time which seems like a waste to me.

Walking along the streets you always spot something that catches your eye.

A cute restaurant set up between two buildings

The city is undergoing a major transformation which is resulting in quite an upheaval. New metro lines are being installed along ancient streets. This has meant some streets are blocked off while they dig massive holes in the cobbled roads.

More picturesque images that are so frequent in Italian cities.

Michael and Jeanie arrived at our apartment just after 3.30pm and there was so much to talk about it. I was surprised that they were so chirpy after their long flights – amazing what a hot shower and a glass of wine can do.

We enjoyed our meal of meats, salami and cheese, and after revealing the mystery meat in the fourth (circled) salami – Jeanie was not going to try it.

The mystery meat was donkey.

It was quite surreal to think that four friends who’d met in a rural town in central west New South Wales almost 20 years ago, were now sitting around a table in a small, ornate-balconied apartment on a major street in Turin, sipping Italian wines.

Tomorrow we collect the hire car and head to a small village south of Turin where we will spend 6 nights – four of those with Jeanie and Michael. I will admit that I am feeling somewhat nervous about driving in Italy. It has been a few years since I’ve driven in Europe.

Fingers crossed.

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