Arguably the most famous wine growing region in the Southern Rhône!
The commune is famous for the production of red wine classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) which is produced from grapes grown in the commune of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in portions of four adjoining communes.
We spent the day here and the weather again was glorious. A cool start but then a beautifully sunny day.
It was a pleasant 40-minute drive to the village which was much smaller than I’d imagined: around 2000 inhabitants.
We passed many vineyards on our way. Surprise!Surprise! But they are so different to the way grapes are cultivated in the north. Here they are grown on flat land, and many of the vines are obviously very old, with gnarled trunks. The patchwork of colours also indicates many different varieties.
At one of the domaines today there was an excellent poster showing the 13 varieties that they grow and use.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is usually made of mostly white Grenache. But Mick had decided he would only taste red wines today.
We didn’t make it up to the ruined castle which was built in the 14th century for Pope John XXII, the second of the popes to reside in Avignon. But appears from what I read that he was the first and the last pope to do so. However, the antipope Clement VII sought refuge here too.
No word of a lie, this place had more shops, caves, domaines, wine cooperatives within a radius of a 7 minute walk than we’d ever seen or experienced before.
Despite not seeing the castle, Mick certainly tasted quite a few Chateauneuf-du-Papes today.
There were few visitors here as the holiday season is considered over. The man working here spoke broken English, and between our attempts and his patience, plus he could see the obvious joy in every sip Mick tasted, we had a wonderful experience. And we learnt a lot about this AOC, which is totally different to how the Southern Rhône wines are classified. Basically, the wines must be produced from grapes grown in this area and must be mostly made from Grenache.
Next stop was almost next door.
The woman running this business could speak excellent English so we left here with a bottle of one of her best wines, and a better understanding of the parcels of land making up the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation.
His third stop was at a small family run business called Domaine Durieu, and he left here with another wonderful wine. That is what Mick assured me.
There is a pattern here. Every wine tasting results in at least one purchase. I had to remind him we only have for nights left in Europe.
We enjoyed lunch while sitting in the sun in a restaurant overlooking the square.
I had hoped to call into another cooperative like we’d visited yesterday morning, this time in Vacqueyras. I was unsure if Mick wanted to taste any more wines. But he soldiered on.
He left here with a single bottle of a Grenache-based wine but he really, really wanted to buy a bottle of their local spirit. I was pleased he didn’t.
We arrived home in time to prepare dinner in our apartment and while sitting on our balcony with a glass of wine, Mick spotted an American woman we’d seen in Châteauneuf-du-Pape at his first tasting. She followed us to the next one as well as she could speak no French. Anyway, he called to her and invited her up for a drink. She happily accepted.
Two hours later, almost without her drawing breath, I interrupted her to say we must eat dinner as Mick was diabetic etc. etc.
A very interesting person, who at aged 76 was travelling on her own, admitted she was so pleased to be able to speak English with others like us for awhile.
I don’t think she’ll need to have an English conversation now for some time !!!!
We’ll probably run into her tomorrow at the weekly markets here in Vaison.
Jane and Mick's Holiday Adventures 