The trip from Aranda de Duero to Logroño was just over two hundred kilometres, and although we deliberately chose the smaller roads, we spent most of the trip on four lane highways.
We stopped about half way in the small village of Garray and were lucky that there was one Bar / Restaurante open where we could get a coffee.
I have tried to learn some Spanish before we left home – but I’d have to say I’m pretty hopeless – I freeze when I need to say something. But here at least I was able to order us each a coffee, and there was something fantastic looking on the counter I thought we should try – it was a tortilla. The cost for two coffees and a slice of tortilla was just over €4 – super cheap. The tortilla had a crusty cheese base, cooked potato slices and under-cooked egg, similar to an omelette. My goodness it was fantastic.

We enjoyed our morning tea in the Plaza Mayor (Main Square) right next to the local church, complete with a water fountain.

If you look closely, on the highest point of the church, just to the left of the bells you should spot a massive bird’s next. We assumed it was a stork’s nest, although all we saw flying around it were pigeons.
We arrived in the city of Logroño just after midday, and were lucky enough to get a park in the free car parking lot on the edge of the old town where we are staying.
Our apartment is in San Agustin Street which is filled with restaurants and bars and other specialiaty shops.

Looking the other way down our street, you can spot lots more restaurants and a shop selling sausages and chorizos – which caught Mick’s attention.


Once we had checked in around 2.30pm we had a small siesta, as we had enjoyed a cold beer and a glass of wine while we waited for our host to meet us with our keys. The weather here is hot, with a top of 34°C and it is going to be hot for 2 more days before the temperatures drop significantly to around 6°C overnight, which we’re looking forward to.
Many visitors to Logroño come through here each year as part of the Camino de Santiago, Mick and I on the other hand, are on a different sort of pilgrimage – we are here for the wine, as Logroño is the capital of Spain’s La Rioja region.
We headed out around 7pm, a bit too early for some establishments, to the street behind our apartment – Calle Laurel. It is a “must visit” according to anything I read about Logroño, famous for its tapas culture and lively atmosphere.

Mick and I attempted a “bar crawl”, visiting 6 different places, which was only a small portion of the reported 65 bars and restaurants featured in the 200 metre strip. The nickname for this street is “la senda de los elefantes” or ‘path of elephants’. But I have no idea why??
Each bar had dozens and dozens of different wines to try by the glass, paired with a tapas or pinchos. One downside for us oldies was that there were definitely more wines on offer than chairs – it is expected that you stand, at a table if lucky, but sitting was a luxury.

There was one dish that had caught Mick’s eye when we were in Aranda, and here it was too, featured in every bar, often sitting in pride of place on the main counter, making it hard to resist.

We shared a plate of one of these for just under €5, after it had been reheated and cut into thin slices. It certainly did go well with a glass of rioja.
As the night progressed and more bars opened, Mick became more confident in ordering for us both.

By this time, I decided I had had enough red wine and chose a Cava, but Mick powered through one more glass before we headed home for the evening around 10pm, just as things were getting busy. But we got the gist.