All through the streets of Casco Viejo there are vendors like this fellow, trying to sell items of clothing. Others are trying to sell jewellery and knock-off bags.

It is more common to see the vendors in pairs at least (usually selling exactly the same things), or even larger groups. Mick and I have witnessed them pack their gear up super quickly and move away from where they were, just before we have spotted police officers or a police car driving slowly down the street. It is clear that the word has been passed around by phone about when it is time to pack up.

We learnt that these young men are mostly migrants from countries like Algeria, Morocco and Senegal, and that this method of selling is an important source of income for them as many have issues with legal residency or work permits.

We’re pretty sure their actions are illegal, but unfortunately, this isn’t something new or specific to Bilbao. In other large European cities, including Paris, we have seen similar groups trying to make some money this way. Pretty tough.

Bilbao definitely has a very poor side to it, and today Mick and I got to see a bit more of that.

I suggested we go to the Sunday Flea market as I read they were vibrant and quirky. I found out there was one at the end of the tram line we have been using in Bolueta. So we headed off to the end of the tram line, passing through outer suburbs of high rise apartments which were clearly poorly maintained and crowded. Each balcony was filled with washing hoping to dry and the surrounding areas were filled with rubbish.

Bolueta is the end of the line – in more ways than one. As we made our way to the markets from the tram we spotted a group of about eight policemen. Within seconds, three of the police were questioning a young man, who was almost right next to us by now, who was carrying several bags. Mick and I moved on.

The markets went on for a long way – possibly 700-800 metres with stalls on both sides.

Many of the stalls were selling clothing; bras were a very common item here. But the most interesting “stalls” to other market goers appeared to be those where items were laid out on the ground in random locations. We soon worked out that these were more of the illegal vendors as another group of police walked past us and within seconds – the crowd had gone.

It was around this stage that Mick and I started to feel pretty uncomfortable. This did not feel like the market we were looking for.

We pretty quickly turned around and headed back to the tram to get back to Casco Viejo. And literally within minutes we were back in the centre of Bilbao where the contrast was now even more obvious.

These two buildings are banks and both have impressive sculptures on their rooftops.

I later worked out that I had taken us to the WRONG markets.

The Open Your Ganbara Market is held in a disused biscuit factory where over 100 stalls sell items including vintage clothing, handmade jewellery and books. Described as …..

“Artistic, bohemian, and family-friendly—great for browsing and discovering local makers. It’s one of Bilbao’s most unique flea markets, blending industrial charm with creative energy.

Everything the one we went to wasn’t.

We eventually had morning tea at Café Iruña where there was no crowd on Sunday morning. After which we returned home to catch up on some washing and some rest. We have a big day planned for tomorrow.

I headed out for a walk in the late afternoon and found some interesting things to see.

I have posted this photo previously – it is the Bilbao’s City Hall and Mayoral office. But of course it isn’t big enough for the city as it is now, having been built in 1892. I walked around the back and found the rest of the administrative offices for the city.

And across from here was the first ‘green space’ I’d seen in the city. While there are lots of plazas (which are usually paved), here was something different.

We had dinner in tonight, including my attempt at a pintxos, as we have an early start tomorrow.

I bought us a little treat for dessert that I have been eyeing off for a few days. This is San Sebastián cheesecake—also known as Basque burnt cheesecake (at €4.60 a slice). Our walking tour guide told us that you cannot find this in pastry stores, because this is a ‘dessert’. Splitting hairs?? Anyway, there is one shop in the old town that only sells this cheesecake.

It was incredible!!