After a great night’s sleep, and some discussion about the best plan for today, I booked us an Uber (as a test run for some other days when we need to be places that are simply too far to walk) to take us to the Vila Nova de Gaia, or Gaia for short. Gaia is on the other side of the river to where we are staying.

We were dropped off near the area that has all the wine cellars, where we will return in a few days for a tour that I’ve booked for us. This area is where the wine is aged and stored before being shipped around the world.

These type of boats are called Rabelo boats – wooden vessels that once were very important to the wine trade here in Porto. Apparently, each cellar has at least one of these boats it uses primarily as a display. But each June 24th, the Rabelo boats take part in a regatta that celebrates Porto’s patron saint, São João (Saint John). I believe they hold races.

As we walked along the waterfront towards the bridge, we had a good view of lots of the large cellars. And high above us was the Gaia Cable Car that gets those interested in walking across the highest part of the Dom Luis 1 Bridge closer to the starting point.

The view across to the other side of Porto, known as Ribeira, was fantastic.

Mick and I walked across the famous Dom Luis 1 Bridge – but only on the lower level – to get to the riverfront promenade, one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods. Here we found a café for morning tea , and we each had a small Portuguese tart (pastel de nata).

This side of the river was certainly busier than the other side (Gaia – with the cellars).

As we made our way through the historic centre, the streets started filling up with lots more people, and crossing some roads was chaotic.

There was a lot of construction work being carried out in this city – we think an underground metro. The City Town Hall certainly wasn’t looking its best.

As we made our way back towards our accommodation, I encouraged Mick to make a slight detour to a café I’d heard about in my research for this trip. I like to read travel blogs, watch YouTube clips on places we will visit, and also view some TV programs as I prepare for our holidays. One show in particular on SBS, called “Portugal with Michael Portillo”, had lots of suggestions for us about Porto.

He highly recommended a visit to the Mercado do Bolhão, and he insisted visitors must try the local sandwich, called the Francesinha. He even went further and said people must visit the Café Santiago to try this speciality.

The Francesinha is Porto’s iconic sandwich, layered with cured meats and steak, then smothered in melted cheese and drenched in a rich, spicy beer-based sauce. Often served with fries and a fried egg on top, it’s a bold, indulgent tribute to Portuguese comfort food.

As we arrived, we spotted a line-up of people in front of the café, obviously they too had watched Michael Portillo and taken his advice.

As it turned out we got a table, but only just.

Was it a mistake to try this abomination? I’d say definitely if we are worried about our waistlines and our good health. But, we took the risk.

The biggest mistake was ordering one each. We could not eat it all – no way.

I’m unsure if it was supposed to be lukewarm, and if the chips were supposed to be frizzled up and look like they were cooked a few days ago. But that is what we got.

Would I recommend trying one? No

For the next few hours Mick and I were so thirsty; something they had used really dehydrated us. We wondered if Michael Portillo was on a commission.

During the late afternoon we visited the Mercado do Bolhão and bought some oysters and a sea urchin. We have never tried one before, and Mick was up to the challenge.

There were lots of markets stalls set up in the squares around our area at this time as well, which were not here late last evening when we visited.

The weather today was perfect.

After the lunch we chose today, Mick and I wanted to eat something a bit healthier – so we enjoyed the fresh seafood from the markets and Mick cooked us some sardines he’d bought at the small supermarket nearby. And, he did like the sea urchin.

We did quite a few steps today. But what makes it hard is the cobblestone paving. Mick’s knees are screaming at him and my hips aren’t too happy. But, we are not complaining. Porto is such a vibrant city.

POSTSCRIPT

Yesterday I mentioned that our driver who collected us was Russian. I have since learnt that that is unlikely. She was probably Ukrainian.

Since the start of the war in Ukraine, Portugal has welcomed over 60,000 Ukrainian refugees, making Ukrainians the second-largest foreign nationality in the country. Many have settled in northern cities like Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia.